Thursday, March 23, 2006


All these kora-ers (see Kora Curiosties, below) do inflict a certain amount of wear and tear on the pavement surrounding the kora-ed item.

There is a massive re-paving exercise currently underway around Dege monastery.

Dozens of stonemasons are employed to hand-chisel about 30 parallel grooves into each paving slab, presumably to make them less slippery when wet.

A wise precaution on the part of the Abbot, I think, in these litigious times.

Gosh, the things you learn on 2wheels, eh?

Wonders never cease.


  1. Ed!

    Are you about to leave?

    I hope you took your training seriously in and around your "Base Camp" in Dege.
    No matter what route you take to Golmud,if you are not fit,and eat proper food,you won`t make it.

    To make your ride back to England safer and slightly easier,you should borrow some money so you don`t have to"cut corners" when it comes to food and whatever you need.
    If I can lend you some? Eh,sorry,I still owe a pile of money after my last trip. I wonder when I will be free again...

    Yesterdays text was slightly coded so I would not upset anyone.

    I guess there must be a wangba in Serxu. On your description of this part of the trip in your blog you mentioned Yushu. Yushu is 48 km out of your way from where I think you get to 214 at Xiwu. So why do you want to go there?

    I hoped and expected you to go north-east on 214,and then take a slightly dangerous gravel road from near Huashixia via Gawa Obo and straight over the mountains to the safety of 109.

    But if you plan to go via Yushu, then this is the only way that I know of across what you describe as "the heart of the platau":
    "A trail leads into the remote interior of the Yangtze source region to link up with the Lhasa-Kermu(Golmud) road near Toma". Where is Toma? (Tibetan name).
    "NB This route is not passable in summer when the river levels are high and at other times only in a four-wheel drive jeep with a high-axel support truck".
    This track supposedly goes from Qumarleb.
    The quote comes from Tibet Handbook. Footprint.

    Please Ed! You are not going on this track are you?

    In less than 10 cm of snow you can`t see the track,and there won`t be any tyre tracks to follow.
    And to wade across fast flowing and very cold water you will cramp up and drop to your knees.

    Well anyway,have a nice ride to Serxu!


  2. Atleast there was no death, kill, die, snow, freeze, killer dogs or plastic pipes in this one...

    Bring nurse linda back she sounded durty!

    Nice bit chisel action... I like to see people toiling away... for a cause

  3. Repairs to the pavement!!!!!!!!!!

    What on Earth is their council tax bill like, we pay a fortune and our pavement looks like George Bush ordered an air strike on it.

    I'd consider moving to Dege if this is the kind of service you get. I'm not so impressed with the dead cat collection department though; maybe I'm jumping the gun a bit.
    Is there a FAQ page for likely expats?
    What's the radio 4 reception like in Dege?
    Can you receive the Archers?
    Are there any good Italian restaurants?
    Where's the nearest fish & chip shop?
    What's the cheapest 2-week package to Torremolinos come to?

    Come on Ed you've been there ages now, give us some relevant info.

  4. If "El Presidente" ordered an airstrike against Lloyds Bank his ratings would go up I'm sure.

    Actually come to think of it I'd vote for him for sure! As I have just met my new bank manager the 11th in 9 years...

  5. Uuhuh! thaank youu verry muucch!

  6. In response to Asmund's post - it would seem that Edward is always about to leave...

    I'd also like to laud our Norwegian guest for giving sensible advice, rather than telling our blogger he's going to die, this time.

    Hear that Genochio, the man gave you advice, which looks sensible from where I'm standing.

    As for the pavements - can't they get a machine to do that?!

    Hand-chiselling - gosh - we haven't done that since the Stone Age, surely? :P

    Nice to see they take pride in their pavements though.

  7. When your travelling your always leaving it's a strange thing, just when you get use to a place your leaving.

    As for Asmund (old chum I've not met you nor have I travelled that much) But I would say you've got the glass half empty "Oh my god it's half empty! says asmund what will I do?" ligthen up not every dog is going to bite you, not every road is a certain path to hell. As for GT test your off your rocker mate! I've seen a few bits of this world and it's been interesting to date. If I always thought the worst I would not bother getting out of bed after a while...

    PS was that Elvis? or am I having some wierd minute here?

    "you can get killed in darkest surrey on a week day you don't have to be miles and miles away. So chill it mate or I'll have to start swearing again and it's been a while so I could be brewing up some right bad words!"

  8. Come on, NSNP!

    Don't you have ANY IDEA how many pavement-groove-chisellers would lose their jobs across China if machine-grooving were to catch on?

    The resulting social unrest would quickly lead to anarchy. You only need to look to France to see that happening today.

    Gosh, I sometimes wonder if we have learnt nothing from the Luddites.

  9. ASMUND, me ol' tuna-tinna -

    Have you considered riding with a kevlar-lined umbrella, to shield yourself from meteorite strikes?

    You should, you know. Certain death awaits you otherwise.

    Edward Genochio (14 and 3/4)